The Varsity Restaurant
Food not as remarkable as the restaurant's reputation
Review
Varsity is a small restaurant, but by no means cosy. It seems to be plagued by the four winds. If there are no tables free near the windows, think twice about going in; its listed-building status means that the owner cannot rectify the unbearable glacial draft that whistles down on the three tables nearest the kitchen. When we visit, Itchy is to suffer the lesser of two evils, seated under an abrupt wall fan that emits a loud rattle to accompany each gust. One man is darting around frenetically, pouring wine one minute; then rapidly totting up a bill; now bringing out dishes from the kitchen. This family restaurant has a reputation for being under staffed.
The starter is warm pita bread with a mix of those dips Greece does so well. It's nothing Itchy couldn't rustle up after a quick trip to Sainsbury's. The main course of Kleftico lamb, slow-cooked all day, is Varsity's signature dish. Its long incubation has given it a hard-won tenderness, but it's rather shy on flavour. The meal ends on a more positive finish with a mouth-watering, crispy baklava that was really worth leaving the house for. The prices are not unreasonable. Itchy leaves the restaurant somewhat worried. From all accounts, Varsity seems to be a much-loved Cambridge staple, but it appears to be thriving on an outdated reputation. It looks like hard times for this Cambridge institution.The Varsity Restaurant
35 St. Andrews Street
Cambridge CB2 3AR
01223 356 060Naomi O'Leary
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