Cambridge

Alimentum

Alimentum is all aglow. The waiters are welcoming, the decor is warm. Unexpected things like cocktail straws, foie gras, and the kitchen's lobster-killing device come with top ethical credentials. Itchy's starter is a pool of rich venison ragu atop a swirl of polenta. Now, boiled cornmeal can be a stodgy experience. It's traditional to North Italy's Alpine regions, the kind of dish that will stick by you when you're carving down a black run at 4pm and the fog is descending. Paltry Cambridge snow aside, Itchy's not sure that our lives are hard-core enough to call for polenta. But this polenta is stunning; light and creamy with an almost feathery grain, an irresistible base note to the intense blasts of flavour from the venison. We pity our friend, cowed into ordering the seared salmon, but he declares it just as delicious as ours.

There are those who can, with unblemished conscience and indeed satisfaction, work their way through a cutlet of delicately prepared pig fat such as this one, which boasts only the slightest sliver of meat as a coating to its bottommost layer. Itchy is not among them. But with the righteousness of a regular gym-goer, our friend consumes the scintillating pork belly main course with total nonchalance, never flinching once. Reportedly, it's excellent. Our pan fried sea bream, meanwhile, is highly satisfactory.

We make the tactical flourish of opting for a cheese course. The waitress has an encyclopaedic knowledge of Alimentum's latest all-star selection, and assembles me a personalised palette of eight petite samples. This is one of those occasions when we admit that perhaps, in our true self of selves, Itchy bats for the savoury team. From the first exciting nibbles to the last nostalgic morsels, this dairy kaleidoscope gives us more simple pleasure than a tart ever could.

This set dinner, for £18.50, is easily the best meal Itchy's had in Cambridge. We'll certainly be going back to check out the Jazz on Tuesday nights.

www.restaurantalimentum.co.uk

Naomi O'Leary

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